This week for the Real German Cuisine Challenge, we made a Kalbshaxn (Veal Knuckle). The knuckle is a cut of meat from the leg of the calf, located next to the sirloin. I’m learning a lot about cuts of meat doing these challenges. I used to have no idea what cut was from where, but I’m slowly educating myself on meat. Another thing I’m learning, ask the butcher how much a piece of meat is going to cost before you order it. Okay, I’ve got to do these challenges, but at least I would have been prepared for the shock. My 3kg (that’s what the butcher gave me when I asked for a piece for 4 people) frozen Kalbshaxn cost €38. Sheesh! But I guess if you work it out per person, the piece, which was more for 6+ people, didn’t cost THAT much. It would be good for a special meal like Easter, Thanksgiving (for a change from turkey), or Christmas.
I’ve also learned that raw meat should not be bloody when you see it in the package. Meat is hung to age before being sold, which requires storage space, so a lot of butchers cut corners and don’t hang it long enough. Bloody meat is a sign of this, and a sign that the butcher selling it is not carrying the best meat. The piece of roast I got for the Sauerbraten was pretty bloody, which probably goes a long way towards explaining why the Sauerbraten didn’t turn out.
A funny story, when I ordered it, the butcher originally thought I’d want it for Easter and asked if I wanted to pick it up this coming Thursday or Saturday. I told her that no, I wanted it for this coming weekend and wanted lamb for Easter. I didn’t think anything more about it, but when I told the story to Rainer, he reminded me that we live in a very Catholic area and the butcher was probably a little surprised that we eat Kalbshaxn during Lent.
Now on to the cooking. The first thing we had to do was to remove the skin and sinew. I started cutting away, and it’s not easy, let me tell you that. Also, being no expert on butchering meat, wasn’t really sure when to stop removing stuff. The more I cut away, the more the meat kind of came loose from the bone. So I just cut away the surface stuff and left the rest. This was probably the most muscle-looking piece of meat I’ve ever worked with, just to warn the folks out there who don’t really like thinking about where their food comes from.
I browned the Haxe on all sides, set it aside, then roasted the vegetables shortly. I poured in half the Kalbsfond then stuck the whole thing in the oven. I basted and turned about every half hour, adding the rest of the fond as needed. About half way through cooking the whole house smelled of delicious roasting meat and veggies.
I took the meat out then put it back in the turned off oven to rest while I made the sauce by pureeing the veggies. Stephanie mentions it in her post too, the sauce was delicious. These German sauces are so different from American gravies. Instead of thickening the sauce with flour or cornstarch, you puree vegetables, and it really makes a huge difference. The sauce that went with the Haxe was so good. Next time I’ll put more vegetables in so I can make more sauce. We’ve run out now!
As I went to slice the meat, it almost fell off the bone. I couldn’t help it and took a couple bites before serving and again, wow, it was so delicious.
I made Semmelknödel to go with the Haxn. This time I added a lot more flour than last and they turned out perfect. Nice and dense and tasty. I planned to also serve broccoli, but on Sunday morning I shared this plan with Rainer and he said that that was all wrong. You’re supposed to eat it with Sauerkraut. Well, we didn’t have it on hand and the stores are closed Sundays, so yeah, he could have thought to tell me while we were at the store on Saturday. Something to remember for next time anyway.
Overall, this dish was an out-of-the-park homerun. I am definitely going to make this for my family the next time I’m back in the States.
Other participants (will be updated throughout the day):
- Stephanie at A Greenville Life
- C N Heidelberg at Heidelbergerin
Next challenge!
Next week’s challenge is Harzer Lamm in Buttermilch (Harzer lamb in buttermilk). The recommended side is Thüringer Klöße, but I’m not going to be able to make them at my mother-in-law’s house (I could, but I don’t want to grate all those potatoes by hand). So that’s an optional recipe, we can work it in again later as a side for something else and I’ll make it then. Other sides that Rainer recommends are brussel sprouts or green beans with bacon. My in-laws don’t have internet access, so the next post will go up the Wednesday following Easter.
Want to pick a future recipe? Go through the list and let me know which recipes you want to do.
{ 14 comments… read them below or add one }
That looks exquisite! And thanks for sharing what you’re learning about meat/butchering. I struggle with understanding cuts and the bit about bloody=not great meat is news to me.
Can you answer me a question? That appears to be an enormous piece of meat (3kg!). How big was the pot you used to brown it?
Sarahs last blog post..Zippy Crunchy Salad
There is something rustic about that piece of meat! Kind of wish I had ordered the knuckle instead of settling for the shank…!
But I do agree with being aware of the price of the meat – that made my decision to go with a lamb roast with part of the bone left in (very small though) instead of buying a completely boneless one. The butcher assured me that it was the same cut of meat – only the price was different!
Stephanies last blog post..Kalbshaxn (Veal knuckle) – or in my case – Veal Shank
Here’s mine:
http://cndrnh.blogspot.com/2009/04/amiexpats-kalbshaxn-veal-knuckle.html
Not sure if we’re in next week – we didn’t order lamb yet! We will see!
It looks delicious!!
Jientjes last blog post..Fun Monday, Holiday in Provence
Where’s the list of recipes? I can’t find it at the link.
CN Heidelbergs last blog post..AmiExpat’s Kalbshaxn (Veal Knuckle) Challenge!
@sarah: Was news to me too. It was on one of those Speigel TV shows that I normally wouldn’t watch, but after the Sauerbraten incident, decided I should learn more. I cooked it in a 28cm roaster. Let me know if you want to get a coffee or Diba tomorrow, I’ll be around in the afternoon.
@Stephanie: There is something impressive about the bone. My lamb is coming on the bone too, so we’ll both be doing it that way.
@cn heidelberg: If it’s that popular an Easter dish, they might have them at a large supermarket, maybe frozen if not fresh. You could also use another meat, I’m guessing. I fixed the link in the post now, it points to the recipe list.
@jientje: It was really great!
you don’t have to grind the potatoes by hand. just stick them in the kitchenette and have the machine do the work for you instead. the only “Handarbeit” that you would have to put in woud be sticking the raw mash into the Kartoffelsack to get rid of all the potatoe juice.
@rita: I’ll be at my in-law’s house though and we won’t have room to bring our kitchen machine with us
awww. that’s sad. but i thought every german household owned such a machine. but maybe i’m just spolit from growing up in the Erzgebirge …
Spargel season and strawberry season are coming up, so I suggest the Spargel mit Kratzete and the Erdbeer Bowle for sometime in late April/May
CN Heidelbergs last blog post..AmiExpat’s Kalbshaxn (Veal Knuckle) Challenge!
@rita: Not my 87 year old mother in law! The only machine she has is a bread/meat slicer.
@cn heidelberg: Definitely! I’ve been looking forward to doing those. The Spargel stands are set up here, but they aren’t manned yet.
I am so impressed with this effort! I bow in awe of your culinary skills.
Harvey Morrells last blog post..hmorrell: @jeiseman No log-cosine integrals?
Sounds delicious! The meat cut looked a bit intimidating –quite muscular, and too much like — a leg! I know, I delude myself into thinking meet in the foam packaging is somehow NOT from a carcass!). I know what you mean about American gravy sauces vs. pureed vegetables– so much more flavor in the latter.
The only “Handarbeit” that you would have to put in woud be sticking the raw mash into the Kartoffelsack to get rid of all the potatoe juice.